Thursday, 15 May 2014

The Shrimpton legacy


Sometimes I feel that fleeting moments of mad social rebellion are the ones that end up typifying a decade. And the evidence is almost always dug out of a dress-up box, or the spidery back of your closet, for a cringe-themed dress up party that you’d rather not remember anything of. The staple bell-bottoms for the 70s, a pair of leg warmers for the 80s, and an unforgivably short crop top (and a fake bejeweled belly-button piercing to match!) for your own favourite – the 90s. We reflect upon the loveable ridiculousness of fads from generations gone, laughing all the while as we jig to cheesy one-hit-wonders, now dubbed ‘classics’.

Don’t get me wrong – I love a little boogie in my halo of hippy flowers, which I whip out for the occasional old-school music festival. But sometimes I feel that the best that once-upon-a-time has to offer is forgotten behind a smokescreen of glitz and glamour. But every now and then, a stroke of luck has you stumbling across a genuine diamond in the rubble.


That’s how I rediscovered Jean Shrimpton. Beyond the Beatle boots, tie-dyes and gaudy patterned wallpapern of the 1960s, lives the legacy of a fresh-faced English rose, who transformed the two worlds of fashion and style. In the realm of fashion, ‘The Shrimp’ was the quiet, unassuming beauty that had been eclipsed by the loud voluptuousness of the 50s girl. She had the sleight, waifish frame of British youth, that became the figure swathed in the movements of Youthquake and Swinging London. In one fowl swoop, ‘sensual’ became broader and more capricious than the standard pin-up girl.

However, it was in the realm of style that Shrimpton really made her mark. Some of the classic looks today, that fall safely in the domain of both the elegant and the effortless, have their roots in her gamine gloves. So here it is, a 50-year old legacy, that is almost certainly here to stay…


1. The Peter Pan collar

Before Shrimpton, sexy was strictly a 'womanly' thing (explicit content). There was no tease to be found in fun, and no allure in awkward adolescence. The Peter Pan collar brought the world attraction within reach of the young, and Swinging London was their Neverland… Today an oversized collar is a statement, and even an accessory in itself.



2. Mondrian


In 1965, YSL released the dress that would change how women’s clothes were viewed and worn forever. Beyond the carnal splendor, the body was a canvas for the contemporary artist. And so, Yves Saint Laurent distilled a world of shape and shades onto a shift dress on the frame of Jane Shrimpton as an homage to form and colour. Today, the artistic movement of De Stijl, which literally means The Style, weaves timelessly in and out of catwalks, shop-windows and magazines. Block colour and linearity is everything.





3. Men's watch


You can almost imagine the intrigue that a men’s watch worn on a woman must have provoked in the 60s. Sort of like casual sexiness of tossing on the boyfriend’s shirt to buy a loaf of bread on a Saturday morning. The evolution of style in the last 50 years has revealed that there is an uncanny appeal of a masculine touch on the female physique. And the order of the day in the 21st Century is that unisex is sexy.





4. The original mini


It’s funny to think that half a century ago a hemline a mere 10 cm above the knee could cause such a stir. Elders, conservatives and aristocrats alike were scandalised at the audacity of such leggyness. And girls, teens and libertines were emancipated from the exhausted playpen of full-circle skirts. So here it is, an ode to the original mini – an elegant framing of limbs, and about a foot away from being confused with a belt.




5. Pointed flats


A pointed flat has the grace of a heel on the ground. It somehow elongates your legs just by framing your nestled toes. From Valentino’s studded number to Alexa Chung’s vintage finds, pointed flats have become the sophisticated duo that gives the heels a rest.


Monday, 28 April 2014

Cut the crop


                                         Proenza Schouler


The days when 'crop top' brought to mind 90s high-school films and undignified nights out on girly summer escapades are long gone. I wouldn't have seen it coming, but it appears that crop tops can actually be done with stylish flair. It's something about the way they end so abruptly that looks so 'cool': as if you couldn't be bothered to wait for the finished product, pulling it over your head fresh from the sewing machine. 


                                           Reed Krakoff

But crop tops done properly also have that sleek, contemporary refinement about them. In fact, if your wardrobe were a living room, the crop top would be the modern, low-lying Scandinavian-inspired coffee table at the centre of it: modest and unassuming, but controls all the proportions of the grander scheme. Their minimal stitching, marginal detailing, and negligibly tailored shape give them that edge of understatement that rules the world of 21st Century unisex fashion. In one word, crop tops at their best embody minimalism - quite literally. And there is only one rule for translating it from chic catwalk androgyny into office appropriate wear: meet the midriff with a high waist.

Sunday, 27 April 2014

Do the funky monk

I am a massive fan of the new wave of Monk shoes that have swept through London. Traditionally a moderately formal shoe, they strike the perfect balance between smart in form and touch, and casual in detailing. The perforated white calf skin on this pair of Russell and Bromleys against the sleek sole and double gold buckles are a striking combination of a lightly eclectic feminine twist on a typically androgynous shoe. Perfect for a Dress down Friday followed by a night on the town.

Saturday, 26 April 2014

Anne Saint-Marie


Mostly, I find that London has it all and I am never short of things to do and see during the week and on the weekends. But this month, I do wish I were making an impromptu trip to Paris. The Papier GlacĂ© exhibition at the Palais Galliera celebrates a century of fashion photography at CondĂ© Nast, depicting how the company and its brands, most notably including Vogue, have shaped the evolution of fashion. The museum will be littered with iconic fashion photographers, such as Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn and Mario Testino. However, this incredibly effortless shot of the 1950s supermodel Anne Saint-Marie stole my eye. Appearing in American Vogue in 1955, Henry Clarke captures an incredible sophistication, which transcends time and place. A source of inspiration for aspiring to elegance.

Sunday, 13 April 2014

Becoming "Conscious"




In 2007 I read an article in my monthly issue of Marie Claire that changed how I viewed the fashion industry forever. "Prada Vs Primark" was a duel between Katie Spicer, the average highstreet shopper who pairs the occasional designer item with an abundance of low-cost trends, and Tamsin Blanchard, an ethical fashion journalist who takes the time to question the values and practices of any given brand. For the first time, I was forced to ask myself whether my pennyworth on that exquisite £10 top would support something good and how I could make my decision count. Tamsin's side of the story captivated me: she was a shopper with a conscience, something we could all use a bit more of when building on our personal wardrobes.



So how do you know whether you're buying from a brand with a conscience? Sometimes, it's not so clear to you where they source their textiles from, or how they've come to arrive at an Oxford street window. Sometimes, it's crushingly obvious that a "bargain" to you is making a fool out of some poor soul lost, in the global bulldozer of a supply chain. And sometimes, just sometimes, they tell you. 

H&M Conscious is the brand's ethical commitment to "bring you more fashion choices that are good for people, the planet and your wallet". This season, the collection is a blend of Flamenco frippery and royally angular cuts, in the ever-classic palette of black and white. I love the mediterranean embroidery, and I have my eyes on this gorgeous black long-jacquered weave dress




It may not be the case of the usual wander-in-and-out of the high-street shop, picking up a few fanciable items along the way. The truth is that these garments are quite a bit pricier than the average H&M number. But being organic, recycled and created from cellulose fabrics you are guaranteed that guilt-free feeling when lugging your shopping home after spending a little more than you should. After all, as Amber Valetta views it, "looking good should do good too".




Saturday, 5 April 2014

Zara lace pencil skirt


Last weekend, I went to the Vogue Festival 2014, and heard from some of the most influential figures of the fashion world. It also posed some interesting questions that got me to reflect on my own interpretation of 'fashion', but much more importantly on my personal style. One of the questions asked at the incredibly engaging and relatable first talk of the weekend entitled 'Personal Style - and do you have it?' was:


"If you had to pick one brand to wear for the rest of your life, what would it be?"

For Fashion legend Lucinda Chambers, a giant, corporate brand would never replace the decades of individual and personal style items haggled over in the bustling stalls of Portobello market. For the lovely and inspirational Amanda Harlech, nothing would ever be as timelessly elegant as Chanel Couture. And for all her enviously quirky ways, Alexa Chung picked Topshop! 

For me, it was a no-brainer: Zara is the winner.

I have been lusting over the lace veiling the Burberry SS14 collection this year, and fell head over heels when I saw it re-done (minus the granny pants shining through!) by Zara. I'm not a massive fan of the colour red, and definitely not of the colour purple. But together they look beautifully bold and subtle simultaneously. My new favourite thing this season.

What brand would you wear for the rest of your life?


Thursday, 3 April 2014

Il est midi



On most days, a well-fitted pencil skirt will do. I’ll wriggle into it and suck my tummy in, as I stuff the dangling remains of whatever blouse I pick that morning in to my neatly drawn waist. Et voila! – a fantastical hourglass silhouette emerges, no matter what body shape you in actual fact are, and no matter what naughtiness you gorged on the night before. And the best part is, that when your flaring curves are out and paired with an elegant pair of heels, your legs actually look quite long and chiseled!

But sometimes, …sometimes I just don’t feel like being ‘leggy’. Sometimes, the thought of framing my womanly hips as I strut towards the coffee machine, or of wiggling my skirt-hugging bum in peoples faces as I ascend the escalators of the London underground just does not appeal to me. And this occasion calls for a ‘midi’.


A midi?! A skirt that chops your shins in half and has men questioning your newly assumed librarian attire? In truth, on arriving in to work in my swaddling black midi, my gay male friend wittily reminded me that it wasn’t Sunday yet and that I might want to reserve my outfit for mass. But whilst I am sticking to my guns about my favourite new work garment, this season’s trend couldn’t lie further from the stereotype. This Fendi number for instance screams youthful excitement, whilst channeling that floating elegance that a lengthy skirt will bring.



And that’s the thing about a midi – you don’t need to pack away your femininity when ditching sexy. Some of my favourite midis this year are all about the touch. A delicate fabric, or a soft pleat can instantly transform a traditionally frigid-looking skirt in to a whimsical fantasy. And such is the case for Christopher Kane’s take that combines virtually shapeless pieces in to a gentle and elusively appealing guise.


And finally, would it be anything more than a flash-in-the-pan trend without the Burberry seal of approval? I am utterly enamored with the idea of floating fabrics below the knee as Autumn calls and the cold starts to creep in. From Burberry English lace, to Derek Lam American leather, the possibilities for the turning of the seasons are endless…